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Jonathan Gold’s 101 Best Restaurants

Los Angeles Times – View Online

93. Bulgarini Gelato

The foothills of the San Gabriel Mountains are home to some of the best ice cream in California, including the all-American Main Street creaminess of Mother Moo in Sierra Madre and the farmers market freshness of the original Carmela. But even the glories of Mother Moo’s three-milk ice cream fade in comparison with the gelati of Leo Bulgarini, who is nearly as fanatical about his gelato as he is about his hometown AS Roma soccer team; he is especially adept at capturing the flavors of ripe, local fruit. It is hard to say what is better: his goat’s milk gelato with toasted cocoa nibs, the yogurt gelato with sea salt and olive oil, the blood orange sorbetto or the gelato he makes with the ultra-pricey Bronte pistachios he hand-carries from Sicily. House policy at Bulgarini mandates a three-scoop minimum, at $2.50 per.